Register a SNAP EBT card with Amazon


Try Amazon Fresh


The illustrations from:

Costumes Orientaux
Recueil de costumes et vêtements de l'Empire ottoman au 18e siècle
Collection of costumes and clothing of the Ottoman Empire in the 18th century
Owned by Joseph Gabriel Monnier

1 Le Grand Seigneur : Sultan Abdul Amith en l'année 1774 Abdülhamid	2 Le Sultan sur son trône recevant un ambassadeur Abdülhamid enthroned	3 Haséki Sultana ou sultane favorite Haseki Sultan	4 Serraï ou Mayoundé Quetghuda Kadun, intendante des femmes du sérail Kahya Kadın	5 Falakagi Kadun, femme chargée de châtier les autres femmes du sérail Falakacı Kadın
6 Bou Kisi serraï enderoundé tchalas ribab : fille jouant dans l'intérieur du sérail d'un instrument nommé ribab Rebab Çalan	7 Serraï anmaioundé tambouri kadun : fille jouant dans l'intérieur du sérail d'un instrument nommé tambouri Tambur Çalan	8 Nay tchalan : femmes jouant de l'instrument Nay Ney Çalan	9 Santour tchalan : femmes jouant dans le sérail de l'instrument nommé santour Santur Çalan	10 Miscal tchalan : femme jouant dans le sérail d'un instrument nommé miscal Mızıka Çalan
11 Quéman tchalan : femme jouant dans le sérail d'un instrument nommé quéman Keman (violin) Çalan (player)	12 Hannendé daïré tchalan : fille jouant dans le sérail d'un instrument nommé daïré Daire Çalan	13 Cherbetgi Kadun : femme servant le cherbet au grand seigneur, le sultan Şerbetçi Kadın	14 Natur Kadun : femme qui frotte et essuie au bain le grand seigneur (le sultan) et ses femmes Natır Kadın	15 Kamadan Chican : femme servant dans le bain Hamamdan Çikan Kadın
16 Kiz iattugui vakitté : femme prête à se coucher Ayartıcı Bir Kız	17 Chab Zadé : fils du grand seigneur, le sultan Şehzade	18 Kizlar Aghaffi : grand eunuque noir qui a la garde des femmes et des plaisirs du sultan, et l'intendance des revenus de toutes les mosquées Kızlarağası	19 Khaznadar Agha : second eunuque noir ayant la garde du trésor particulier du sultan Haznedar Ağa	20 Bach capon harem oglani : portier de la première entrée du harem Harem Oğlanı
21 Mabindgi : eunuque servant le harem Mâbeynci	22 Ak agha : chef des eunuques blancs lesquels n'entrent point chez les femmes du grand seigneur Ak Ağa (aka Bâbü’s-saâde Ağası & Kapı Ağası)	23 Ak Agha tchadjesi : eunuque blanc et nain du grand seigneur, le sultan Cüce	24 Khastalar ak aghassi : eunuque blanc intendant de l'hôpital des eunuques blancs Haznedar ak ağa	25 Seliktar agha en cérémonie, porte sabre du grand seigneur, premier officier des blancs du sérail et qui ne quitte cet emploi que pour être pacha Silahtar Ağa
26 Seliktar agha en habit ordinaire Silahtar Ağa	27 Tchokadar agha le premier valet de pied du grand seigneur, le sultan Çuhadar ağa	28 Tchokadar agha le premier valet de pied du grand seigneur, le sultan, en habit ordinaire Çuhadar ağa	29 Hassequi en habit de cérémonie formant la garde rapprochée du grand seigneur Haseki Ağa	30 Hassequi en habit ordinaire formant la garde rapprochée du grand seigneur Haseki Bostancı
31 Kilerli endéroun aghassi : garde de l'office du grand seigneur le sultan Kilerli Enderun Ağası	32 Hriktar agha : porte aiguière du sultan pour lui donner de l'eau lorsqu'il veut se laver les mains İbrikdar-Ağa	33 Iskemledgi bachi : porte tabouret du grand seigneur, le sultan İskemleci Başı	34 Rikiap sobaï : l'homme chargé de marcher à côté du cheval du sultan Rikab Solak	35 Durbendar Agha : porte turban du grand seigneur, le sultan Dulbend Ağa
36 Khas odalu : un des quarante pages de la chambre particulière du grand seigneur, le sultan Iç Ağa (aka Enderun Ağa)	37 Battadgilar Ketqudasi, chef des Battadgis Baltacılar kethüdası	38 Zouloufli Battadgi : domestique au sérail Zülüflü Baltacı	39 Battadgi : ils sont employés dans le sérail à divers services auprès des officiers Baltacı	40 Kapoudgilar Ketqudasi : commandant des quarante capoudgis bachis qui sont les grands officiers du sultan Kapıcılar Kethüdası (aka Mir-i alem)
41 Serraï Oumaïnoundé Capoudgissi : portier des entrées du sérail Kapıcı of the Bab-ı Hümayun	42 Salahor, écuyers ordinaires du sultan Çuhadar	43 Unkiar sir kiatib : premier secrétaire du sultan Sır Katibi	44 Mouté Ferrika tchaoux : officier des gardes du corps du sultan Müteferrika Çavuş	45 Amaktar Agha : le gardien des clefs du sérail Anahtarlarının ağa
46 Itch Oglan Tchaoussi : officier des pages du sultan İç Oglan Çavuş	47 Khas Akhourti : officier ayant inspection sur les chevaux et les écuries du sultan Palace Groom	48 Dilsiz : l'un des muets du sultan Dilsiz	49 Etchi Bachi Kiatib : secrétaire du chef des cuisines Aşçıbaşı Katibi	50 Unkiar Tchokadar : valet de pied du sultan Hünkâr Çuhadar
51 Halvadgi : garçon de l'office du sultan Helvacı	52 Botstandgi bachi : chef des botstandghis, gardes de divers palais Bostancı Başı	53 Vézir Azem : grand vizir Sadr-ı âzam	54 Defterdar effendi : surintendant des finances Defterdar Efendi	55 Reis effendi : Grand Chancelier ministre des affaires étrangères et chef des bureaux du divan impérial Reis-ül Küttab
56 Tchavouch bachi : chef des huissiers Çavuşbaşı	57 Teskeredgi effendi : maître des requêtes Teşrifâtçi efendi	58 Capou terjuman : grand drogman (interprête) de la Porte Kapi Tercümani	59 Musdedgi bachi : chef des courriers de cabinet Müjdeci Başı	60 Alaï tchavouch : homme qui précède le Vizir, responsable du protocole vis à vis du Pacha, lors des audiences. Alay Çavuşu
61 Divan tchavouch : huissier de la chambre du conseil Divan Çavuşu	62 Bach tchokadar : chef des valets de pied du Vizir Baş Çuhadar	63 Vézir karakonlaki : espion du Vizir Haseki Bostancı	64 Ravas : bourreau qui accompagne le Vizir Kavvâs	65 Surré émini : intendant chargé de l'argent envoyé à la Mecque Sürre emini
66 Chatir bahi Vézir : il précède le Vizir et écarte les gens devant lui Şatır Başı	67 Muphti : chef de la loi musulmane Şeyh-ül-islâm	68 Cazilesquier : grand juge qui nomme les juges subalternes dans les provinces, les cadis Kadiasker	69 Nakib échéref effendi : chefs des émirs Nakib-ül Eşraf	70 Cadi : juge d'une ville Kadi
71 Nakib écherif tchaouch : huissier de justice Nakib-ül Eşraf Çavuş	72 Mahalé imani : Imam Mahalle imam	73 Muezin effendi : crieur de la mosquée qui monte sur le minaret pour appeler les musulmans à la prière Müezzin	74 Uléma bach tchokadar : premier valet des gens de loi Orta yasecı	75 Bektachi : moine derviche Bektaşi Dervişi
76 Mewlevi : derviche tourneur Mevlevi Derviş	77 Zombouli : derviche Sünbülî Dervişi	78 Babaï : derviche Babaî Dervişi	79 Roufaï Cheïk : chef spirituel de la confrérie soufie Roufaï Rufaî derviş	80 Etémi : derviche Etemi dervish?
81 Roufaï : derviche Rufai derviş	82 Ouchaki : derviche Dervish from Uşak?	83 Maxi bendi : derviche Maxi bendi dervish	84 Medgnoum : derviche Arap derviş	85 Arab derviche : derviche arabe Arap derviş
86 Missali derviche : derviche égyptien Egyptian dervish	87 Hadgi : pèlerin Mekke’de Türk	88 Renisseri aghassi : général des Janissaires Yeniçeri Ağası	89 Sournadgi bachi : Grand Officier des Janissaires Turnaçıbaşı	90 Tchobadgi bachi : colonel des Janissaires Çorbaçı başı
91 Oda bachi : Capitaine des Janissaires Odabaşı	92 Baïraktar : enseigne porte-drapeau Bayrakdâr- Alemdâr	93 Muksur aghassi : officier des Janissaires servant d'huissier à la porte du divan, le conseil du sultan Muhzırbaşı	94 Khassas bachi : officier des Janissaires chargé de leur surveillance Asesbaşı	95 Capelan posteli irénisseri : Janissaire chargé de mettre et d'ôter les peaux de tigres des chevaux du sultan Harbeci
96 Solak bachi : commandant des Solaks, tirés du corps des janissaires chargés de veiller à la sureté publique de Constantinople Solakbaşı	97 Unkdar peïk : janissaire, garde du corps du sultan dans les cérémonies Peyk	98 Etihi bachi : chef de cuisine, officier des Janissaires Aşçıbaşı	99 Jenisseri saka : officier subalterne, porteur d'eau des janissaires Sakabaşı	100 Jenisseri karakouloukchi : bas officier des janissaires Karakullukçusu
101 Salma tchokadar : officier subalterne des Janissaires, commandant de la patrouille de police Salma Çuhadarı	102 Jenisseri kecheli : Janissaire en habit de cérémonie Yeniçeri	103 Séferhe endéroun aghassi : archer Seferlı Enderun Ağası	104 Serdenguesti : soldat Janissaire en tenue de combat Serdengeçti	105 Mefer ienisseri : soldat Janissaire de la garde de police Janissary on patrol
106 Aide de camps du Janissaire agha ADC to the Yeniçeri Ağası	107 Sadi Saïmen : Janissaire en garnison Acemoğlan, Şadı	108 Bostandgi bahi sir kiatibi : secrétaire du Bostanghi Bachi Bostancı Başı Sirr Kitab	109 Spahi : soldat de cavalerie Atlı sipahi	110 Sopgi bahi : Général des canonniers Topçubaşi
111 Sopgi : canonnier Topçu	112 Combaradgi : bombardier Humbaracı	113 Capitan Pacha : Grand Amiral de l'Empire Kaptan Paşa	114 Beylick Capoudan : capitaine de vaisseau Kapudâne Bey	115 Capoudan Pacha Tchaoussi : officier de marine, lieutenant de vaisseau Hüseyin Fazıl Bey, a Kaptan Paşa
116 Galiondgi Bournasseilé : enseigne de vaisseau, marin en bournasse ou burnous Kalyoncu	117 Galiondgi : soldat de marine Kalyoncu	118 Laze Ademi : habitant des côtes de la Mer noire, marin de profession Cellat	119 Unkiar kaiktchisi tufanalu : rameur des felouques du sultan Hünkâr kayıkçısı	120 Missir Bey : l'un des vingt-quatre Beys qui gouvernent l'Egypte Mısır Beyi
121 Kurdgi : musulman des provinces de l'Empire, non né à Constantinople Deveci	122 Boursali : habitant de Brousse (actuelle Bursa en Turquie) et de ses environs Bursali Asker	123 Habitant de la Mecque Inhabitant of Mecca	124 Satar aghassi : gentilhomme tartare Tatar ağası	125 Halepli : homme d'Alep Halepli
126 Dgézirlu : Algérien Kalyoncu	127 Hadgi Kadun : femme qui va en pélerinage à la Mecque Hac Kıyafetgyle	128 Soulombadgi : pompier pour les incendies Tulumbacı Yeniçeri	129 Tchokadar : domestique turc Çuhadar	130 Saka : porteur d'eau Saka
131 Cumurdgi : charbonnier Hamal	132 Halvadgi : marchand de confitures Helvacı	133 Gébildgi : homme qui vend de l'eau aux passants Sebilci	134 Hamale : portefaix Hamal?	135 Pachalerugn alaï tchouassi : bouffon des pachas Sersop (aka zırzop)
136 Déli Tchaoux : fou ou bouffon Kamber	137 Iasmaklu férégésiz kari : femme turque en iasmak sans ferrégé Peralı Sokaktan Kadın	138 Férégélu osmanlu karisi : femme turque en ferrégé dans les rues Sokaktaki Türk kadını	139 Arab Agarié : esclave noire au marché Köle	140 Evêque grec en habits pontificaux Greek Bishop in Pontifical Vestments
141 Papas grec, marié en habits sacerdotaux Greek father, married, in priestly clothes	142 Papas non marié en habit ordinaire Greek father, not married, in ordinary clothes	143 Grec en colpaque A Greek man	144 Calfa ou architecte grec Rum Kalfa	145 Taouchan : Grec des îles de Tine ou de Syra (île de Syros) Greek man from the island of Tinos or Syros
146 Esclavon : habitant de l'Esclavonie (actuelle Slavonie, région de Croatie) A Slavonian	147 Niphi romessa : fille grecque en tenue de mariée Greek girl in bridal attire	148 Dame grecque Greek lady	149 Servante grecque des îles Greek servant of the islands	150 Fille de l'île de Marmara Girl from Marmara Island
151 Fille de l'île de Chio Girl from the island of Chios	152 Juif A Jewish man

Recueil de costumes et vêtements de l'Empire ottoman au 18e siècle	Collection of costumes and clothing of the Ottoman Empire in the 18th century
Auteur: Monnier, Joseph Gabriel (1745-1818 ; colonel du génie)	Author: Monnier, Joseph Gabriel (1745-1818, Colonel of the Engineers)
Date: 1786-07-11	Dated: 1786-07-11
Langue: français	Language: French
Dimensions: 7.7 x 24.8 cm
Droits d'utilisation: Ville de Bourg-en-Bresse ; libre de droit et convention de prêt pour le fichier original	Rights of Use: City of Bourg-en-Bresse; Free of charge and loan agreement for the original file

Held by Ville de Bourg-en-Bresse, Ms 65
Now viewable at culture.bourgenbresse.fr & europeana

The captions, in French, are listed on a number of separate pages.

---

3.1.3. Istanbul Traveler Monnier's Album

The ones mentioned so far were the albums in which the works of the Greek painter were used as models. An original album by the artist's own hand could illuminate all the points discussed here. It was possible to reach the works of the artist himself by examining the albums -most of which are copies- scattered around the world. One of them will be mentioned here, an album in France that contains most of the works copied by European painters. This album completely explains what kind of an album the copied original will be. The album titled Recueil des Costumes Turcs (Turkish Costumes Series) is in the Municipal Library in Bourg-en Bresse, near Paris, and belongs to an engineer named Joseph-Gabriel Monnier (1745-1818).¹³²

Born in Bourg-en-Bresse, as the son of a medical doctor, Joseph Gabriel Monnier was educated at the Ecole de Génie de Mézirèes and became a French Royal engineer. He came to Istanbul for the first time on 16 July 1784 as an assistant to Lafitte-Clavé. Monnier, who was the military advisor of the Ottoman armies, resided in Istanbul between 1784-1786 and for the second time between 1793-1797.¹³³

Between 1783 and 1788, many French experts and officers came to Istanbul within the framework of cooperation between the Ottoman and France. The first to arrive were the fortification engineers, who started to strengthen the fortification of the Bosphorus against a possible Russian attack.

During these years, it was determined that experts in the fields of artillery, shipbuilding and more than fifty engineers, foremen and workers came to Istanbul.¹³⁴ He contributed to the realization of modern engineering education in the Ottoman country by giving lectures on fortification. Lafitte-Clavé and Gabriel Monnier mapped the Bosphorus and Black Sea walls and presented them to the French government and the Grand Vizier Halil Hamid Pasha, in reports containing their other works.¹³⁵

Monnier wrote the following in his diary on July 11, 1786, about the 152 illustrated watercolor albums he acquired while he was on duty in Istanbul: 136

"I organized my Eastern corpus which made up a collection of 152 pictures and classified them into 9 notebooks... This collection was painted by a Greek, and Turkish names were written partly by Mr. Trécourt, a French language student, and partly by Mustafa Kalyoncu, a Turk."¹³⁷

As it turns out, Monnier, one of the engineers who came to the Ottoman country, ordered this album with 152 pictures, which includes Ottoman types from all walks of life, and had the opportunity to both keep a record of where he lived and get to know people from the protocol with pictures. Monnier also did not mention the name of the person he referred to as the Greek painter in his diary while naming the authors of the painting descriptions. This issue can be explained as follows: As mentioned above, in this period when ancient experts and enthusiasts increased, the word 'Greek' came before the name of the artist, so it was used to express a value, a more important concept that goes back to ancient origins. The authors expressed that they supported the policies of their countries, knowing the Greek culture and language for the travelers, and their missions. Therefore, if they talked about a 'Greek' friend and culture in their diaries and works to be published, it would have emphasized that they supported this, that they knew this culture or that they had made acquaintances.¹³⁸

The album contains 152 paintings measuring 37.7 x 24.8 cm and begins with two portraits of Sultan Abdulhamid I, one standing and the other seated. One of these portraits resembles works attributed to Rafael Manas, one of the painters of the period. Ottoman descriptions are written on the lower right corner of each of the figures in the album. Again, French definitions written according to Ottoman pronunciation were included in a separate list in Monnier's diary. For example, he wrote halvadgi in the 132nd place in the list, which is the figure of the halva maker no. 132 in the album.

All of the paintings are single figures and there is no themed scene presenting a section from daily life. Monnier, who was trying to get to know the Ottomans, ordered them and returned to his country in 1786 with this album among the information he obtained and the notes he took.¹³⁹

The creator of Monnier's album and, in our opinion, the producer of the albums copied in the Polish and Swedish albums mentioned above, the person we now call the Greek painter, used Vanmour's works while creating his own patterns and developed them as mentioned. The artist's use of sources other than Vanmour's works while creating his albums and the way he followed when creating original works became more visible with the discovery of his new albums. Since other European artists copied the Greek artist's albums exactly, they created the impression that they had compiled their albums by making use of Vanmour, various sources and the works of this artist separately.

Again, when we look at the style, it seems that the Monnier album was written by the same hand, e.g. başçuhadar, peyk, zülüflü baltacı, kayıkçı, kızlararğası, haznedar ağa, alay çavuşu, tercüman, müftü, another album containing figures in almost the same mould was found. It has been understood that this album, which is in the British Museum today and known as the Diez Album, and the Monnier Album are original examples made by the Greek painter. Therefore, painters working around the Polish and Swedish embassies made copies of an album similar to the Diez and Monnier Albums. At this point, it will be useful to introduce the Diez Album, which is from the collection of an orientalist.

Source: OSMANLI KIYAFET ALBÜMLERİ (1770-1810) by Nurdan KÜÇÜKHASKÖYLÜ